The Best Way to Travel Through Northern Morocco Is by Train — Here’s H…

Trains of camels might have been traversing Morocco for centuries, but these days it’s more common to find travelers crossing the country on the railways. This modern take on the caravan connects the four historical capitals, carrying passengers from Tangier in the north to Marrakech, the red city in the center of the country. And, besides, why have one city break when you can make it five?

I took this route on my 10-day journey, starting in Tangier and making stops in Meknes, Fes, Rabat, and Marrakech. (All trains in Morocco are run by the country’s national railway operator, Office National des Chemins de Fer.) Taking the train meant I could visit places that many tourists might overlook (like Meknes) and let me see the landscapes from the windows that I would have otherwise missed from the road, especially on the last leg of the trip into Marrakech.

Plus, it let me get a real taste of daily life and interact with locals. For me, those connections are the real pleasure of traveling no matter the mode of transport — and it just so happens that trains in one of the most welcoming and hospitable countries I’ve ever visited are a fast track to these interactions. If I went back, I would explore the country by train — there’s simply no better way to travel to northern Morocco.

Tangier 

Perched at the tip of Morocco, Tangier is the gateway to the country from Europe. It has long drawn in voyagers from all directions and is a city whose influence on the arts and culture of the 20th century is firmly imprinted. Here, whitewashed walls change tones with the sun, and a sweet sea breeze slips through the streets. The city sits atop a cliff, and winding streets tumble down towards the water running through the souks that ensure all visitors will find themselves lost in amongst the maze of shops pushing anything from traditional hand-woven rugs to miscellaneous holiday snaps left by tourists some decades ago. 

Spend the first evening wandering through the streets and stumbling upon the El Hafa viewpoint, where locals host impromptu photoshoots with a hazy Mediterranean backdrop. To settle in for the show, wander along to Café Hafa. Established in 1921, it resembles an amphitheater tumbling down the cliff edge. It’s hardly a well-kept secret, so finding a spot may take some time. But once settled, it’s easy enough to get a cup of a Tangier’s special iteration of Morocco’s famous mint tea from one of the servers winding through the tables.

As the last colors fade from the sky, cut a path back through the kasbah (citadel) and medina, where commerce continues late into the night. (A medina is a historical part of a city.) Stop off for food or coffee and watch life unfold around you. Anyone expecting Morocco to be a complete culture shock will likely be surprised that there is so much familiar about Tangier thanks to the many writers and artists, from Eugène Delacroix and Henri Matisse to the Rolling Stones, whose imaginations have been captured by the city. Perhaps even tap into the city’s artistic scene with a film at the Cinémathèque de Tanger, the first North African cinema cultural center, which now occupies the 1938 Cinema Rif building in the Grand Socco.

Meknes

If there’s an element of familiarity in Tangier, the next stop, Meknes, is a step in the other direction. The journey takes a couple of hours and, starting from Tangier, there is a choice of a slow train or the high-speed TGV towards Casablanca.

For a few extra dirhams, a first-class ticket will get you a large seat with a table and socket, though a change at Kenifra is necessary. Here, get on the train towards Fes. From this point on, first-class seats are in compartments, while second-class seats are airline-style. In both, vast windows open up on the landscape that flurries past.

There is no better way to spend this time than gazing out at the scenery, where clusters of houses peek over rocky outlets and small flashes of life appear in what would otherwise be a barren landscape — a man cantering his horse alongside the railway at one point, or another transporting his wares to a nearby market on an ancient motorcycle truck.

Meknes is relatively unknown among international visitors and gives a sense of what many of its more famous counterparts must have felt like just a decade or two ago. Today, the medina is going through a makeover; one minute you’re walking over uneven rubble and the next on freshly laid brick. In the summer, temperatures can reach 70 degrees and there is almost no one around.

The town encourages visitors to adopt the Moroccan pace of life. Take the morning slowly, and definitely don’t rush out into the midday heat. Instead, consider spending an early afternoon at Museum Dar Jamai, exploring the history of Moroccan music within the walls of a 19th-century palace. 

As the weather cools down, life starts to stir on the otherwise sleepy streets. Here, far more shops are occupied by artisans working on their crafts, with doors flung open, inviting conversation with passersby.

From Meknes, a day in Volubilis and a visit to the most holy city in the country, Moulay Idriss, are highly encouraged. While not on the train line, they are just a short taxi, bus, or combi-taxi ride away. The ancient city of Volubilis is the main draw here, and a few hours can easily be spent wandering the ruins but don’t skip the town and its lively square. Spend the night here and take a cab directly to Fes, or return to Meknes and continue the journey inland by train.

Fes

With crowded alleyways filled with vendors competing to shift their wares onto passersby, Fes really does meet the international image of Morocco. It’s more than a few steps up from the cities earlier on this itinerary.

The city is set in a valley, with the souk rising and falling through narrow alleyways. The close architecture contributes to its bustling nature and the city rarely opens out into squares. There are a few, though, and a stroll through the Jnan Sbil Gardens is a good way to catch a moment of respite.

Known as the artisan capital, Fes is a haven for anyone looking to shop, but be prepared to haggle —and haggle hard. The most renowned attraction? The leather tanneries have been integral to the city’s economy for centuries.

The short trip up to Marinid Tombs is a must, particularly at sunset to get a sense of the city as a whole and watch the sun light up the fields and mountains nearby. Catch a cab back into town and stop off for a drink on a rooftop where you can see the city and its flickering lights. Across Morocco, the late-night call to prayer is a reminder of the country’s magic — and the same is true here. After all the chaos in the markets below, it’s a grounding close to the day.

Rabat

Back along the coast, the next stop is the capital. Stepping out of Rabat-Ville station onto the vast Avenue Mohammed V and walking down towards the medina already gives a sense of the city’s unique character. Like Tangier, Rabat has been shaped by numerous waves of influence and rule since the ancient Phoenicians and Mauretanians. Rabat has been the Kingdom’s capital since its independence from France in 1955. The architecture preserves this history from the medieval Islamic Kasbah of the Udayas to the Colonial-era neighborhoods and beyond.

The medina itself is charming, but it’s really the museums that stand out in the capital. From the National Photography Museum in the remains of the 19th-century Burj Kebir Fortress to the Museum of Contemporary Art, Rabat is an opportunity to slow down a little and turn away from the commercial spirit that dominates so many Moroccan cities.  

In the evening, walk down to the waterfront, catching sight of Salé across the Bou Regreg river, and continue onto the seafront for another sunset over the ocean—just this time, it’s the Atlantic. From here, wind back through the maze of the medina and simply embrace getting lost. Admire the shops laden with antique teapots, Berber jewels, and various colorful ceramics. As for food, those tiring of tagine may be glad of the West African restaurants tucked away within the medina.

From Rabat, the country’s biggest city, Casablanca, is just over an hour away, but it’s an acquired taste — and those who have it are likely to find two days far too short. Instead, head for Marrakech via direct train, which is just under four hours away.

Marrakesh 

The line ends in Marrakesh, right on the edge of the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert. The red city is probably Morocco’s best-known city and has long been a key location for trade. The old town medina is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and crowds jostle to examine products laid out in the streets and hear the sound of bartering in more languages than can be named.

The souks and the verbal battles that come with them might be overwhelming, but if you’ve taken the north-to-south itinerary, these skills should be well-honed by the time of your arrival in Marrakech. It’s best to do this in the evening when the medina comes to life as the burning heat subsides to a dusty warmth.

In the main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa, the busiest square in the entire continent, grab something to eat and fresh juice from the many stalls set up where vendors go to extreme lengths to compete with one another for visitors’ attention. Despite the hustle and bustle, or perhaps because of it, Marrakech offers a few more tranquil spaces, like the Jardin Majorelle and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum.

And though this is the end of the train line, it is easy to add a day or two in the nearby Atlas Mountain towns such as Imlil or the desert at Agdal for a slower-paced break before the journey home.